Monferrato, Asti and Canavese from Turin: wine country, castles, prices

The Langhe have Barolo, Barbaresco, Alba and the reputation; Monferrato has Barbera, Ruché, the infernot cellars and half the visitors. A three-wine tasting at a well-known Langhe estate often costs €25–40*, in Monferrato €15–25*. If it is your first time in Piedmont and you want the famous labels, go to the Langhe with a wine tour; if you prefer small producers, open landscapes and lower prices, Monferrato is the better call. Both belong to the same UNESCO vineyard-landscape site.

Direct regional trains leave Torino Porta Nuova roughly every hour and take 35–55 minutes depending on stops; a ticket costs about €5–7* each way. Asti's old town is a ten-minute walk from the station. For Nizza Monferrato and Canelli you change to a second regional train; for wineries in the hills you need a car, a taxi or a tour that includes the transfer.

Ivrea sits on the Turin–Aosta line: 45–60 minutes by regional train from Porta Susa or Porta Nuova, about €5–7*. The centre and the Olivetti buildings are walkable from the station. Masino and Agliè castles, however, are out in the countryside: without a car, the guided tour from Turin or a private driver is the practical answer. Agliè is a Savoy residence and part of the Royal Residences circuit.

The guided food and wine tour in Canavese from Turin starts at about €90–110* for 8 hours with winery visits and tastings; the tasting with winery visit near Asti costs €39–60*. A private driver for the day runs €400–700* per car, tastings excluded (budget €15–25* per person per winery). The regional train is the budget option at €5–7* each way. Prices observed on partner catalogues and checked regularly; the checkout price prevails.

In Monferrato the reds are Barbera d'Asti (and its more concentrated version, Nizza), Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato with its rose scent, and Grignolino, pale and tannic; Moscato d'Asti, sweet and low in alcohol, is born around Canelli and Santo Stefano Belbo. In Canavese the signature wine is Erbaluce di Caluso, a white made dry, sparkling or as a passito, and at Carema Nebbiolo grows on stone pergolas right under the Alps.

They are tiny cellars dug by hand into Pietra da Cantoni, a soft sandstone found only in the Casale part of Monferrato, around Cella Monte, Rosignano and Ozzano. They have no light or ventilation and were used to store the family's best bottles; UNESCO lists them alongside the vineyard landscapes. Most are inside private houses and can be visited only by appointment, through the Ecomuseo della Pietra da Cantoni or with a tour that has arrangements with the owners.

September is the full month: harvest in the vineyards, the Palio di Asti horse race in Piazza Alfieri and the Douja d'Or wine fair in the centre. Dates move every year, so check them before booking the train. May and June give green hills and quiet wineries; October brings autumn colour and pairs with truffle hunting. In January and February many castles are closed and several wineries receive visitors by appointment only.

Yes, but only the town centre. Asti by train, two hours between the Gothic cathedral, the Torre Troyana and an enoteca, then back to Turin for lunch or dinner works well. The same goes for Ivrea with the Olivetti walk along Via Jervis. Hillside wineries, the Masino and Agliè castles and the infernot need a car and at least a full day; they do not fit into a half day alongside Turin.